Le Vigne di Zamo, Friuli
This unusual Tocai comes from ancient vines (fifty years old) and 20% of the grapes undergo a low temperature, slow criomaceration, to delicately extract more complex fruit aromas. Unusual but very attractive in its richness, intensity and density of colour, with golden delicious apples and dried oranges on the nose as well as a nutty, fruitcake spiciness. For a white wine that sees no oak maturation, the palate is impressively rich and offers a broad spectrum of mature fruit and nut flavours, nuances of dried herbs and spices, all balanced by excellent acidity. Definitely one to try - especially as, like the Ronco delle Cime from Venica (above), its rarity value will increase following the enforced name change of the grape.
The Le Vigne di Zamo estate
Shrewd purchasing and careful cultivation of some of the finest vineyard sitings in Collio (Goriziano), on the Slovenian border, Friuli's most prestigious wine region, and a dedicated team in the winery guided by long-term consultant Franco Bernabei, have resulted in an enviable array of world class wines from Zamo, both white and red. Although the region is better known (outside Italy) for the former, the Merlot-based Ronco dei Rosetti and 100% Merlot Vigne Cinquant'anni consistently hold their own against any comparable internationally-styled reds. The critical success achieved by the estate's other cru wines - single indigenous varietal Refosco, Pignolo and Schiopettino, cannot be ignored either.