Mastrojanni, Tuscany
Quite blocky for the estate, surprisingly hedonistic and forward. Really delicious dark chocolate and black fruits swamp the Sangiovese spice a little but there is a freshness here to - characteristic of this almost perfect vintage.
The Mastrojanni estate
The Mastrojanni Estate is situated in the south-east corner of the Montalcino region, set apart up a dirt road from the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The wines are traditional and terroir-driven and the winery eschews the use of barriques as one might expect from such traditionalists. There is however plenty of ripe fruit in the bottle and, if the wines are not the most oppulent from Brunello, they retain a freshness and vivacity in later years after their more initially-exuberant peers have faded. Indeed, Nicolas Belfrage states that the single vineyard Riserva, Schiena d'Asino is 'at its peak, to die for...the 1990 was one of the finest Brunellos I have ever tasted'.