Mastrojanni, Tuscany
Not a particularly precocious infant - more of a thinker at present, biding its time, as one would expect from a vintage which set a new benchmark in Montalcino (although 2004 is being widely touted to equal or even eclipse it). There is Cedar and cinnamon alongside the classic forest fruits aromas and plenty of earth, damsons, currants and pepper on the palate. All there - but will start to show more charm in a year or so.
The Mastrojanni estate
The Mastrojanni Estate is situated in the south-east corner of the Montalcino region, set apart up a dirt road from the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The wines are traditional and terroir-driven and the winery eschews the use of barriques as one might expect from such traditionalists. There is however plenty of ripe fruit in the bottle and, if the wines are not the most oppulent from Brunello, they retain a freshness and vivacity in later years after their more initially-exuberant peers have faded. Indeed, Nicolas Belfrage states that the single vineyard Riserva, Schiena d'Asino is 'at its peak, to die for...the 1990 was one of the finest Brunellos I have ever tasted'.