Rocche dei Brovia, Piedmont
Like the Solatio Dolcetto (see below) the Brea is harvested late from vineyards situated in Seralunga D’Alba, which soils produce traditionally powerful wines. Judicious use of ‘Carati’ (half-size barriques) has softened the typically high acidity and added structure and sweetness. Very purple with an extremely ripe bitter cherry fruit nose and hints of bread dough and varnish, continuing on the palate with damsons, some greenery and earthy notes on the finish. Not shy but very appealing in an unusually hedonistic style.
The Rocche dei Brovia estate
Classic, concentrated but elegant Nebbiolos, a stunningly powerful modern Dolcetto and an Arneis (white) as beautiful as it is saught-after, from the well-placed crus of 143-year old Brovia estate in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of Barolo country and one of the destinations on our wine tour to Piedmont.
'Over the last few years this estate has turned out a number of terrific wines that exemplify the new traditionalism of Barolo, faithfully expressing the distinct qualities of varietal, vintage and terroir in a style that is classic yet accessible at the same time. The estate works with old vines in some of the most prestigious sites in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga. The average age of the plants is 30 years for Garblet Sue (also known as Bricco Fiasco), 40 for Villero and Rocche, and 50 for Ca Mia (also known as Voghera/Brea). Readers seeking fine, traditionally made Barolos would do well to check out these wines, which also happen to be among the most compelling values in the region.' Robert Parker 03/06